Diamonds are a girl’s best friend
11th Nov 2015
I have always been a fan of sparkle so you can imagine when I started in the jewellery industry that I was certainly in my element, been surrounded by the magnificent vivacity of gems and diamonds galore. It wasn’t till I moved on to working with Victorian, antique and vintage jewellery that I really found my passion for the truly unique cuts and the way they are achieved. The techniques that were used in past centuries are no longer. Diamonds today are uniformly faceted; each diamond consists of 58 facets allowing the diamond to capture the optimum light, sparkle and form, given them the WOW factor. The brilliant cut diamond could be described as perfection, the dynasty of precision came about in the 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky is now popularly known as the ‘Tolkowsky cut’. I can’t help but appreciate the pure brilliance of this cut but when I look at an old cut diamond the shape and dimensions truly capture the era and it really brings you back in time, these diamonds have a history, a personality. Diamonds that were cut by hand using old techniques may display less brilliance and twinkle but for me they really have a warmer more romantic glow. I love the raw look of an old European cut or old mine cut diamond the flat table to the centre and the gorgeous tapering crown. The larger facets in an old cut diamond draw your eye’s into the stone and allows you to really admire its internal structure. The early 17th century was when a new perception of what a diamond should look like emerged. The candlelit dinner festivities and baroque era demanded something more sparkly and ornate something that would help you stand out from the crowd, the Dutch cut diamonds of the 16th century just weren’t flash enough for the new period, this was when the brilliant and cushion cut came around. The brilliant cut carries its weight in the lower portion of the stone, with triangular and diamond shaped facets to both the crown and pavilion, diamond cutters wanted to create facets to the best of their abilities and they really did considering this was hand done. The diamond had really taken off! The earlier history of the diamond is shrouded in mystery, when diamonds became worn by humans is unknown; there have been cases in literature that references have been made however translating ancient isn’t an easy task. Up till ten years ago, old cut diamonds such as mine cut and old European were viewed to be diamonds that need re-cutting this is certainly not the case now. The demand for antique diamonds has become huge. Old cut diamonds are becoming increasingly rare and hard to source. The more delicate and understated design and less blingy style has really gained a lot of popularity. Today we have a vast array of cuts to suit anyone to me old cut diamonds will always be my first choice, the vintage look is timeless and the hand cut method leaves a unique and extremely desirable finish. Let us know what you favourite cut is. Do you favour that immaculate beauty of a modern brilliance cut, or do you love that warmth and history that is behind and old cut?